We have all been there – after learning how to use your sewing machine and possibly making a few household/ craft items, you decide to take the plunge and make a garment for yourself.
You pick some fabric, and a pattern, most often in a size that reflects your usual ready to wear dress size.
First pause for thought; my ready to wear garments that are a reasonable fit, cover 4 dress sizes – sound familiar?
Secondly; commercial pattern sizes are not the same a ready to wear ones, there is also little synchronisation between pattern companies. It is possible to get sizing charts on-line (the big 4 Simplicity, McCall’s, Vouge and Butterick) and it is worth looking, before you purchase a pattern.
You should choose a pattern size that matches you body measurements, and as many patterns are multi sized, there are opportunities to blend sizes if needed.
However do not expect a commercial pattern to fit you perfectly without some adjustment, depending on the fit of the garment.
Known as ‘ease’ this falls into two categories, is it designed to hug the body or be a more relaxed fit? This is know as design ease.
The other type of ease is wearing ease. If you have a 26inch waist, then you do not want the waist band of your skirt or trousers to be exactly 26 inches, you have to have enough room to breath, move, sit, work and perform day to day activities without your garments straining at the the seams. Sometimes a pattern will give you a couple of finished garment measurements. But often this is does not give the complete picture.
https://purplefrogdressmaking.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/My-measurment-chart-1.pdfThere is another important consideration; for women’s dresses, tops, jackets coats etc, most patterns are sized for a B cup bust (some of the ‘big 4’ patterns have cup options). Again depending on the fit of the garment a A cup or a C cup might be OK without adjustment, most often a full cup adjustment will be needed for anything over a B cup.
The only way to be sure of a fit; is to accurately measure yourself, taking the measurements that are appropriate to your garment, measure the pattern pieces and make a toile or a mock up. Sorry, I can hear the groans, but I can assure you that taking the time to do these things will greatly increase the chances of having a well fitted garment – THAT YOU WILL WEAR.
To help with one aspect of the above, I have made a printable personal measurement record card and am pleased to offer this FREE – download here
